halloween came early

New York Fashion Week has concluded.

I did not go.

But, I did spend a few hours on style.com and catching up by reading a few friends' blogs!

Generally I don't remember too many details after looking at every single show, though it all eventually comes back to me and resonates with me later, I can't help but think that bondage and goth will forever spot the runways.

I'd like to point out one particular collection--Altuzarra's.

A few have praised Altuzarra's collection, featuring "Frankenstein" stitches and numerous buckles, similar to a straitjacket. I couldn't help but think of Altuzarra's collection echoing the influences of The Matrix, Edward Scissorhands and Death Note.

You may argue that the same might be said of Gareth Pugh's look, then, because he consistently shows a goth influence throughout his collections, but I think Pugh takes his designs a couple notches beyond his obvious influences, and his clothes are more theatrical and costume-like than Altuzarra's.


Altuzarra F/w 2010
images via style.com


L-R: Carrie-Anne Moss in the Matrix,
Johnny Depp in Edward Scissorhands, Ryuk from Death Note
(Matrix image via fanpop.com, Edward image via ithaca.edu, Death Note image via deathgod.org)



L-R: "Frankenstein" stitching a la Michelle Pfeiffer's Catwoman,
on Altuzarra's F/W 2010 runway, "staples" on the Viktor & Rolf F/W 2008 runway
(Catwoman image via premiere.com, runway details via elle.com)


Expensive Halloween costumes, anyone?

me, and alexander mcqueen

Like all of you, I could not believe the news this morning either, that Alexander McQueen, fashion's bad boy and mischievous genius designer, committed suicide. I honestly thought he would end his life when Isabella Blow took hers 3 years ago.

Suicide in the fashion industry is not uncommon; I obviously don't know what McQueen was thinking when he ended his own life, but as a creative individual, I suppose I can try to understand...

I'm not a hugely successful designer like McQueen was. In fact, I'm a nobody. And when you're a nobody, with huge ideas, you're constantly criticized for being on a different wavelength as the general public. I can tell you that one of my exes asked me, "why can't you just be normal???" (that's why he's my ex and by the way, what does that mean, to be 'normal'? It's a matter of perception...) Moreover, it is difficult for creative types with wild imaginations and ambitions to succeed without monetary and/or emotional support. So though McQueen was deemed a "bad boy" in the fashion realm because of how provocative his ideas usually were, his ideas inspired many of us fledgling designers, and gave us fuel to push ourselves more and want the impossible even more. Every season, his show was the one I looked forward to the most. My closest friends can attest to the number of times I've raved about McQueen. McQueen and his work only helped to reinforce that anything was possible in fashion. He helped set a precedent--much like Lady Gaga : it's ok to be yourself, in fact, be yourself to the fullest.

There were many times that I even considered ending my own life (not so much now, but when I was younger). I thought this was normal, but apparently, talking to a lot of my friends, it isn't. Sometimes I just felt alone and completely rejected by society, and no matter what I did, I could never feel accomplished or proud of any of my work. Even among my "close" friends, I didn't feel that they really understood or supported me, but at least they let me be myself and make my own way. Some of them told me (and still tell me) to be more "logical" and "safe", -- asking me how could I continue living life if I didn't know exactly how I was going to arrive at my next goal? Some creative people have an acute business sense. It is these words I put in quotations that discourage creative people from flourishing. As an individual, I'm fairly strong, but to keep throwing stones of that type at me, you'll eventually wear me down. Maybe one day I decide that I don't want to get back up again.

I'm fortunate these days to have at least one person by my side to support me and listen to all my ramblings and fantastical ideas. My parents, especially my dad being a furniture designer, were generally supportive of my decisions and pursuits. They didn't want me to live a life I would not enjoy living. But society treated me differently, and I used to worry about "fitting in", as a child; now I've just given up. I don't care to be "understood" anymore, and trying to be "normal" is something I still can't grasp the meaning of.

If I were to lose those important people, I don't know what would happen. I guess the best way I could put it is: taking care of the runt in the litter; loving it and supporting it, believing that it will grow up to be even better than its brothers and sisters, even if it will take time and extra attention, none of which anybody else will provide. The runt grows to be strong, but carries with it everyday your firm belief that it can be greater than the others. One day, you're gone. This is a weird analogy and probably a horrible one, but I think, despite all the praise and fans McQueen had, he was still a human being, and when Isabella Blow passed, it had a profound emotional impact on him. I would too, if the important people in my life suddenly disappeared. I would feel alone again. And coupled with a perpetual unhappiness despite goals being accomplished, why would one have any reason to live? Perhaps it was a combination of the two for McQueen.

And then McQueen's mother was gone. Her death and his suicide might be completely unrelated, or very well be related. I know my parents genuinely care about me, and support me in all I do. They don't tell me that often, but I know they'll always be there for me, even during my darkest hour. But if I were to lose either one of them, in addition to those I hold close to me, my world would crash. It would be the equivalent of starting from zero, standing back up again, trying to make people comprehend my ideas, and not degrade them. Society today is much more accommodating of creative types, a great thing, but there is not one day I don't think about that jerk who told me to be more "normal".

I will never know who McQueen was. But once I heard he committed suicide, I tried to understand it the best I could, given the context of who he was, and stepping back, looking at my own self, considering all the times I wanted to end my own life. A friend mentioned that "suicide is a plague in the fashion industry", but it's not a plague. There are so few of us in the fashion industry, sometimes we forget how small our world is when compared to the actual scope of things. I'm fortunate to have met some passionate individuals, through the blogosphere, but ultimately, 215 out of my 230 Facebook friends could care less about fashion. That's the reality of it. No matter how much praise or recognition any one of us may receive within the industry, the reality isn't kind to us at all. In reality, people don't think we contribute. Maybe we don't help the healthcare reform issue, or even limit the amount of terrorist attacks that occur, but fashion does breathe life into imagination, tapping into the part of the brain people use less and less of now. Our lives would be dull without entertainment (movies, books, musicals...) all created by the imagination. Fashion is merely another arm of that, a less popular one, due to the bad press usually given to it, but to me is the most important (costume design in movies, for one).

Going back to who McQueen was--I found him to be a genius. To get to the point where he was, he must have beat himself up quite a bit. Especially since each collection he creates, trumps the previous one. And to be so largely successful, he must have made many sacrifices. I myself have given up many things since entering design school. I could take the "easy route" too, get a business degree and work for someone else for the rest of my life. But I wouldn't be able to live with myself. Everyday is a struggle, a balance. Putting everything of yourself into something that other people may never understand or care about. Ultimately it is your own opinion that should matter, but as I mentioned at the beginning of this seemingly long post, those stones will beat me up, eventually.

I have since learned to distance myself from those people, and simply stay in my apartment and work on multiple projects I believe in. I don't feel so alone anymore.

But for McQueen, constantly in the eye of the nasty media, despite his close supporters, maybe he felt alone all this time.

An excellent timeline on McQueen can be found on this blog: http://royboticsteez.blogspot.com/2009/05/alexander-mcqueen-timeline-1994-2009.html

(more photos than my post; I can't find good photos of anything before 2001!)

Below, some of my favorite McQueen looks from 2000-2010







smelly flower (xianghua), meet airbrush

Upon further dissection of my outfit, and countless snapshots of the "Character Creation" mode in the game, I realized....



1. WHAT THE FUCK IS THIS BACK PATTERN AND WHY DID I NOT PAY ATTENTION TO IT BEFORE?

2. I can clearly see the scallop detail now on the bustier, I will have to re-adjust it.

3. Should I just sew in a pair of underwear? I mean... the slit goes up to the waistband...

In my last post I mentioned that all the important patterns were completed. This is usually the most tedious process, because I am building the foundation block on which I'm cutting the fabric and deciding the entire construction of the costume... very little room for error!

I went to Michael Levine during the weekend to scout out some possible fabrics.

The lining and chiffon (for that weird extra back piece) were a no-brainer, but the self fabric would be my headache. I wanted something with a floral pattern, and finding that sort of tie-dyed, almost iridescent fabric would be impossible. Also, it would probably be very expensive. I was VERY lucky, when I went to ML and found this embroidered cotton sateen...!


Scanning white fabric is weird, it shows up like this...


It was the best combination of shiny and matte, also, just thick enough to give the costume the correct amount of drape (in my opinion). It was also scalloped, but the pattern was not close to what I was using (shame). If you follow me on twitter, you know that I am always using COPIC markers for all my sketches and illustrations, and one of my favorite features of the COPIC marker system is their AIRBRUSH device. That's right. You can make any color apply as an airbrush. So convenient, neat and quiet. Below, I have tested it out on the fabric I purchased... (at $14/yd, it isn't THAT expensive, considering I don't really need that much...)



I used a mini air can for my testing, and chose some similar colors.


My tested airbrush swatch... (3 colors)

As for the intense back pattern, that will have to be painted very meticulously.

smelly flower (xianghua)

So here I am embarking on a new costume endeavor. I work better when I have multiple projects going on... sometimes I lose interest in one and start up another one, then go back to the previous one. This really only works when the deadline is one I have set myself, obviously!

I have 3 costumes to complete by July for Anime Expo and Comic-con, as I mentioned before, and with my vacation coming up the last week of February, I already don't have that much time.

I got a headstart this week by completing the patterns for my first look, Xianghua from Soul Calibur IV. We happen to be about the same height and weight (er, same proportions) and she was my favorite character when I played the game incessantly during high school.



Her outfit consists of 3 major components:

1) a scalloped-edge jacket
2) scallop-edged bustier
3) uber short-shorts.

I had to play the game a couple times to see the details a little more clearly, and noticed that the armpiece is separate from the jacket. The jacket has also 2 lining colors--the sleeves are a dull gold and the body is purple.

Luckily I was able to use the bustier pattern I made for the Lady GaGa costume, which saved me a lot of time. My only issue was the scalloped edges. This was something I had never done before, but such an integral detail to Xianghua's outfit. I used a little bit of math and tried to shape the scallops as evenly as possible. I left the edges raw so I could use bias binding on the final product.


Drafting the pattern with scalloped edges

I had previously drafted a pattern for a pajama short, and I used that pattern for Xianghua's shorts. Although I wanted to avoid using elastic of any sort for these, there was not enough length in the short for me to add a zipper and ensure a good fit. Even if I had decided to use a knit fabric, the center front (which is a dangerously deep V) would not have enough body to stay upright unless I used a ton of interfacing, which would interfere with the stretch of the jersey. In any case, I decided to use a thin elastic, 5/8" width, thin enough so it would not be as clear as day but thick enough to keep my ass covered. Only the two sides have elastic bands, to keep a clean look.

For the jacket, I used my contour blocks. There are no darts or special seams for a fitted look, so drafting the pattern for this was a no-brainer. I only had to make sure the length was ok.


First sample of the jacket


Scalloped edges (raw and rough)


First sample of the bustier and short


The blue mark is where the slit would end on the side

My basic sleeve fit perfectly, which allowed me to draft the bell sleeve pattern from there. I originally wanted only the hem to have flare, but I did not want to add any seams to the sleeve, otherwise my design would be compromised. The only seam on the sleeve is the underarm seam.


Slashing and spreading the sleeve, I didn't use this pattern after all.

After checking all the patterns again, I went ahead and did all the scalloping for the jacket edge and the sleeve hem. (it took quite a while)


Drawing in the scallops first.


I cut out the scallops for the jacket with a regular scissor. Special rotary cutters that can cut a scalloped edge are available at art stores, but this scallop design is a bit different and
I wanted to be able to control the depth, distance and size... so I just had to cut very carefully.



Scalloping on the sleeve

Now the main patterns are complete!

You will have to excuse my next couple of DIY posts, as they will probably be all about pattern drafting and fixing my samples.... but I have to finish all the patterns by the end of February!

tommy of the 6th of february

The past few musicians I've showcased ranged from rock to electronica, with OLIVIA being the only one with a tinge of pop-rock history (Shiina Ringo is popular, but I don't feel her music really has a pop sound...).

I actually listen to a lot of pop music, mostly Japanese or Korean (I grew up on Japanese pop), and one notable band comes to mind when it comes to Japanese pop-rock: THE BRILLIANT GREEN. They were the leading pop-rock band consisting of 2 men and 1 female vocalist. The other popular band at the time was Do As Infinity, also comprising of 2 men and 1 female vocalist. I was a much bigger fan of D-A-I as a teen, as I liked Tomiko Van(the vocalist)'s deeper voice, and the band's edgier rock sound.

Photobucket
Tomiko Van & Ryo Owatari of D-A-I

I listened to a little of TBG here and there, but it was not until the lead singer went solo in 2001 that my interest was piqued.


THE BRILLIANT GREEN - Rainy days never stays

She first debuted as Tommy february6 (her Japanese name being Tomoko Kawase), February 6th being her birthday; hence this special blog post. Her music is extremely poppy, very cute, and a little bizarre. Based on her long history with TBG, one would assume she would keep her "safer" image, but with her solo debut, Tommy has emerged as a very quirky pop/rock star who sometimes looks like Avril Lavigne.


Tommy, resembling Avril Lavigne....
(image via moetron.com)


In my opinion, her songs are more catchy than TBG's (I think TBG sounds a little bit like Sixpence None the Richer...). The English is very strange in the songs, and she appears as some sort of sexy-secretary-delinquent-schoolgirl. This look is quite... difficult to pull off, I have to say, especially for someone who just celebrated her 35th birthday, today.


Tommy february6, Lonely in Gorgeous


Tommy february6 persona
(image via itmedia.oc.jp, aki7.com)

She then debuted another moniker as Tommy heavenly6, and these songs were in the pop-rock genre, closer to TBG's style, yet her style became more gothic/lolita.


Tommy heavenly6, I'm gonna SCREAM


Tommy heavenly6, Heavy Starry Chain



Tommy heavenly6 persona
(image via last.fm, amazon.com)

Her last single as Tommy heavenly6 was released in 2008, and it seems that THE BRILLIANT GREEN has again reunited, working on new material together.

Though I've never been a die-hard/obsessive fan of TBG or Tommy (in both alter egos), I do believe that Tommy's music is a worthwhile listen, even with her nonsensical English-Japanese lyrics, strange music videos and 80's reminiscent pop/synth/punk influences.

Hm. Speaking of above-mentioned quirkiness, I guess there IS someone who can wear the recent Giles collection. Charles Anastase's and Luella's collections also come to mind.


L-R: Luella F/W 2009, Charles Anastase S/S 2009


L-R: Giles S/S 2010, Luella F/W 2009

*images via style.com and nymag.com*



I think Tommy would tote around the dino bag proudly... hell, I would. (Giles S/S 2010)